THE OLD SIGN PHILOSOPHER, THOUGHTS FOR THE DAY!
THE REASON OF LIFE.....TO BEAT MATURITY
PARACHUTE FOR SALE.......USED ONCE, LARGE RED STAIN.....ASK FOR CHUBBY'S WIFE
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
TURF SCIENCE: MORE GREEN FOR LESS DOUGH
New turfgrass varieties and maintenance practices produce durable green with less water and fertilizer. Read on, because it doesn't take a turf scientist to understand that this can save you and your business time and money.
Golf course managers don't see turfgrass the way landscape contractors do. On a golf course, never-ending green is the highest priority. Limits aren't placed on water, fertilizer, pesticidesor on a work crew's sweat and toil.
It's different for the contractor who plants turf and irrigation in residential and commercial settings. With most sites connected to municipal water supplies, property owners face fines if they go over irrigation limits. What's more, increasing numbers of property owners are leery about pesticides and fertilizer. Whether their concerns are justified or not, many homeowners would be pleased if you told them that you're keeping their lawn green organically that is, without artificial fertilizer or pesticides.
Conservation Means Money
Each one of these rectangular turf plots is divided lengthwise into halves receiving fertilizer and halves receiving no fertilizer. The name of this ongoing University of California study is Winter Color Enhancement for New Warm Season Grasses. (Tall fescue, of course, is classed as a cool-season turf.)
At first glance, it might seem that forgoing traditional pesticides might mean more work for you and your crew. In fact, recent findings suggest that cutting back on water and fertilizer means that you can spend less time mowing, which can translate into reduced labor costs for you and your business.
Some of these results come from the University of California's agricultural test facility near Irvine, Calif. Over the past decade or so, turf scientists have found that warm season turf varieties like hybrid Bermudagrass and zoysia do well with less fertilizer and water than is generally recommended. What's more, new types like buffalograss perform well with limited water in arid areas across the South and West.
Another key finding is that Bermudagrass and zoysia despite their warm-season reputation will stay green long into the winter if temperatures generally stay above freezing. Adding a little fertilizer in fall and winter can go a long way to maintaining what the researchers call acceptable turf quality far into the winter months.
A lot of people ignore their turf in the fall and winter, because they think it's supposed to turn brown and go dormant. But if you continue your fertilization, you can enhance and maintain that good green color throughout the winter. In the warmer-winter regions, there are a lot of turfgrass types that hold pretty good winter color if they're maintained and fertilized.
Choose Your Turf
As with other kinds of turf, a bit of knowledge about buffalograss can help save you money. If you give buffalograss lots of water and, say, four pounds of active nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, you're going to be mowing a lot, and you're going to have lots of clippings maybe as much as tall fescue. But what buffalograss lets you do is to drastically cut back on irrigation and not die. It will do quite well on 40 percent of the water fescue needs and still look green even at the height of summer.
Ryegrass variety is critical to successful overseeding. Be sure to choose an annual ryegrass strain Annual rye will die off and let underlying warm-season turf resume growth in the spring. Perennial rye, on the other hand, would continue to compete with the primary turf.
Zoysiagrass is another type that offers distinct advantages over more-used turf. Zoysia offers landscape professionals the chance to keep turf green with much-reduced amounts of fertilizer. With zoysiagrass, turf stays nicely green with as little as two pounds of nitrogen (pure fertilizer) per 1,000 square feet per year. To keep tall fescue green, you'd need close to six pounds applied at the same rate.
Another zoysiagrass advantage is a slow-growth rate. Compared to buffalograss, with the same amount of fertilizer and water, zoysia produces half the amount of clippingsand needs half the time to keep it trimmed. That cuts down on labor tremendously. Old-fashioned cow manure is an economical way to get nitrogen and other nutrients to turfgrass. The pungent substance is especially useful for overseeding because it promotes good seed-soil contact. Note that overseeding is also a beneficial practice in spring, where it can help fill-in gaps. Growing from seed, of course, is easier in cooler, moister climates.
Barriers to Use
With those advantages, why don't we see zoysiagrass carpeting lawns across the South and West? The answer has something to do with tradition, and something to do with growth patterns. The slow-growth rate that limits mowing for zoysia lawns is a disadvantage when it comes to planting them. Even so, the variety can be established in warmer weather with success rates that compare favorably to Bermudagrass.
With buffalograss' exceptional drought-tolerance, why isn't it much more common? The answer is that the American native is a better choice in some areas than in others.
When buffalograss is planted in high rainfall areas or when it is irrigated and fertilized, bermudagrass and other weedy grasses invade a stand of buffalograss. Buffalograss is best adapted to low rainfall areas (15 to 30 inches annually) or areas that receive thorough, but infrequent irrigation.
Also keep in mind that buffalograss does poorly in shaded sites or in sites that get heavy use. You won't see it on football or soccer fields anytime soon. Also, given artificial irrigation and nitrogen, bermudagrass and other more aggressive grasses will outgrow buffalograss.
Remember Two Things
There are two things to remember when it comes to turf. One, it pays to do a little research before you choose your turf type for a project. You may do better (for you and your clients) with one of the newer kinds. (If you aren't sure, ask a horticulturist or a turf expert at a local university extension program.)
Second, you can reduce your fertilizer and irrigation totals significantly. If you know when and how much to apply, you can keep the grass green much longer into the winter season. And that's a win-win for you and your grass.
Pre-emergent herbicides can keep crab grass in check for an entire season, but the substance must be applied before seeds sprout in winter or early springdepending on climate zone.
A lot of people ignore their turf in the fall and winter, because they think it's supposed to turn brown and go dormant. But if you continue your fertilization, you can enhance and maintain that good green color throughout the winter. In the warmer-winter regions, there are a lot of turfgrass types that hold pretty good winter color if they're maintained and fertilized.
Choose Your Turf
As with other kinds of turf, a bit of knowledge about buffalograss can help save you money. If you give buffalograss lots of water and, say, four pounds of active nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, you're going to be mowing a lot, and you're going to have lots of clippings maybe as much as tall fescue. But what buffalograss lets you do is to drastically cut back on irrigation and not die. It will do quite well on 40 percent of the water fescue needs and still look green even at the height of summer.
Ryegrass variety is critical to successful overseeding. Be sure to choose an annual ryegrass strain Annual rye will die off and let underlying warm-season turf resume growth in the spring. Perennial rye, on the other hand, would continue to compete with the primary turf.
Zoysiagrass is another type that offers distinct advantages over more-used turf. Zoysia offers landscape professionals the chance to keep turf green with much-reduced amounts of fertilizer. With zoysiagrass, turf stays nicely green with as little as two pounds of nitrogen (pure fertilizer) per 1,000 square feet per year. To keep tall fescue green, you'd need close to six pounds applied at the same rate.
Another zoysiagrass advantage is a slow-growth rate. Compared to buffalograss, with the same amount of fertilizer and water, zoysia produces half the amount of clippingsand needs half the time to keep it trimmed. That cuts down on labor tremendously. Old-fashioned cow manure is an economical way to get nitrogen and other nutrients to turfgrass. The pungent substance is especially useful for overseeding because it promotes good seed-soil contact. Note that overseeding is also a beneficial practice in spring, where it can help fill-in gaps. Growing from seed, of course, is easier in cooler, moister climates.
Barriers to Use
With those advantages, why don't we see zoysiagrass carpeting lawns across the South and West? The answer has something to do with tradition, and something to do with growth patterns. The slow-growth rate that limits mowing for zoysia lawns is a disadvantage when it comes to planting them. Even so, the variety can be established in warmer weather with success rates that compare favorably to Bermudagrass.
With buffalograss' exceptional drought-tolerance, why isn't it much more common? The answer is that the American native is a better choice in some areas than in others.
When buffalograss is planted in high rainfall areas or when it is irrigated and fertilized, bermudagrass and other weedy grasses invade a stand of buffalograss. Buffalograss is best adapted to low rainfall areas (15 to 30 inches annually) or areas that receive thorough, but infrequent irrigation.
Also keep in mind that buffalograss does poorly in shaded sites or in sites that get heavy use. You won't see it on football or soccer fields anytime soon. Also, given artificial irrigation and nitrogen, bermudagrass and other more aggressive grasses will outgrow buffalograss.
Remember Two Things
There are two things to remember when it comes to turf. One, it pays to do a little research before you choose your turf type for a project. You may do better (for you and your clients) with one of the newer kinds. (If you aren't sure, ask a horticulturist or a turf expert at a local university extension program.)
Second, you can reduce your fertilizer and irrigation totals significantly. If you know when and how much to apply, you can keep the grass green much longer into the winter season. And that's a win-win for you and your grass.
Pre-emergent herbicides can keep crab grass in check for an entire season, but the substance must be applied before seeds sprout in winter or early springdepending on climate zone.
Fertilizer Application: How Much and When.
The amount of fertilizer to apply depends on the fertilizer product (percent nitrogen and release rate), the square footage (area) of lawn, and the purpose the lawn serves (athletic field or low-traffic lawn).
Existing Lawns: Most mature lawns benefit from about 4 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. Grasses suited to low nitrogen and water applications (e.g., zoysiagrass and buffalograss) found that they could perform adequately with only 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet of actual nitrogen per year. Grass growing in light shade requires less fertilizer than grass growing in full sun. Turfgrasses under a grasscycling program need slightly less nitrogen; turfgrasses under heavy wear from foot traffic or sports require more nitrogen to encourage faster growth to repair damage.
Generally, a maximum of 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be applied at one time when using a soluble chemical fertilizer. Nitrogen is the major element, so it is the element that the application rate is based on. Also, nitrogen is the most soluble element and has the most potential for burning the grass if applied too heavily. Often, less than 1 pound of actual nitrogen can be applied, but 1/2 to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet at a time is the usual recommendation. Slow-release fertilizers can be safely applied at higher rates. See the product label for specific recommendations on rates an frequency of application; the frequency can range from every 6 to 8 weeks to as long as every 6 months.
A variety of aeration equipment is available and should be used regularly as part of an integrated turfgrass-management program. A properly aerated lawn will make the most of every fertilizer application. Aeration also promotes positive root growth and helps grass resist thatch build-up. Most lawn mowers come with attachments.
The amount of fertilizer to apply depends on the fertilizer product (percent nitrogen and release rate), the square footage (area) of lawn, and the purpose the lawn serves (athletic field or low-traffic lawn).
Existing Lawns: Most mature lawns benefit from about 4 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. Grasses suited to low nitrogen and water applications (e.g., zoysiagrass and buffalograss) found that they could perform adequately with only 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet of actual nitrogen per year. Grass growing in light shade requires less fertilizer than grass growing in full sun. Turfgrasses under a grasscycling program need slightly less nitrogen; turfgrasses under heavy wear from foot traffic or sports require more nitrogen to encourage faster growth to repair damage.
Generally, a maximum of 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be applied at one time when using a soluble chemical fertilizer. Nitrogen is the major element, so it is the element that the application rate is based on. Also, nitrogen is the most soluble element and has the most potential for burning the grass if applied too heavily. Often, less than 1 pound of actual nitrogen can be applied, but 1/2 to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet at a time is the usual recommendation. Slow-release fertilizers can be safely applied at higher rates. See the product label for specific recommendations on rates an frequency of application; the frequency can range from every 6 to 8 weeks to as long as every 6 months.
A variety of aeration equipment is available and should be used regularly as part of an integrated turfgrass-management program. A properly aerated lawn will make the most of every fertilizer application. Aeration also promotes positive root growth and helps grass resist thatch build-up. Most lawn mowers come with attachments.
Calculating application rates. To find out how much of a particular fertilizer is needed to supply 1 pound of actual nitrogen, simply divide 100 by the first number of the analysis shown on the bag. This will give you the number of pounds of the fertilizer you need to apply to 1,000 square feet of lawn area to supply 1 pound of actual nitrogen to the turf. For example, if the fertilizer analysis is 21-0-0, 100 divided by 21 = 4.76 pounds of fertilizer needed to apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen. (A similar calculation is performed for metric measurements.)
Saturday, March 08, 2008
GREENSCAPE GARDENS EVENTS CALENDAR
This year we are offering more gardening events every month to help you get the most out of your gardening season year round.
March 15th, 2008 Meet “Grady O’Greenscape”, our resident Irish leprechaun at our St. Patrick’s Day Party (12 pm-2 pm)
March 22nd-23rd, 2008 “Ring In Spring!”- First Weekend of Spring Color Event
March 29th, 2008-10 a.m. Horticulture Co-Op of GreaterSt. Louis Gardeners’ Village Presents “Be A Greenscaper”Featuring June Hutson (10 a.m.) & Mary Ann Fink (11 a.m.)- Learn about the importance of water conservation and “Build A Better Butterfly Garden”
April 12th Barbara Lawton- Garden Writer & Plant ExpertContainer Gardening with Herbs & More11 a.m.
April 12th-13th, 2008 Featuring…”The Best of Container Gardening”
April 26th, 2008-10 a.m. Earth Day Party- featuring Cindy Gilberg 10 a.m. “Native Plants For Our Gardens”
May 10th-11th, 2008 Mother’s Day Celebration-Get Mom the “Official Plant of Mother’s Day”- the Endless Summer Hydrangea
May 24th-26th, 2008 15th Annual Memorial Day Weekend BBQ- free hotdogs and soda. A St. Louis tradition which can't be missed.
June 7th, 2008 Future Gardeners of America Event-Bring the kids for a “Let’s Go Green” rally! 10 a.m.
June 21st, 2008 “The Healing Garden”- Featuring Cindy Gilberg, take part in a discussion on the healing power of plants. Join us after the Race for the Cure, free pink lemonade for all and free pink flower for all race participants (wear your race t-shirt!) 2 p.m.
June 28th, 2008 “June is Perennial Plant Month” Event
July 5th-6th, 2008 Featuring… Ornamental Grasses
August 2nd-3rd, 2008 Featuring… Drought Tolerant Plants
September, 2008 Art In Our Garden Event
October, 2008 Fall Festival
October 4th, 2008 Habitat For Humanity- Join Greenscape and KMOV Channel 4 in landscaping this year’s Home4Hope!
November 2008 Festival of Trees Event
December 6th-7th, 2008 “I’m Dreaming of a Greenscape Christmas…” Holiday Open House
Other potential events will be listed later. Enjoy the garden.-
HOW TO HANDLE LATE BREAKING PERENNIALS
Four simple guidelines to follow when dealing with perennials that tend to break dormancy late.
To get your late-breaking plants started off right, remember these four simple but important guidelines:
1) DO monitor your watering.While plants are dormant, be careful to avoid both over and under-watering them during this vulnerable time, as both extremes will cause stress and could result in many losses. Over-watering can lead to root and crown rot, while under-watering can dehydrate and kill the plants. The key is to make sure there is just enough moisture in the pot to keep the roots hydrated and to give the plants the little amount of water they need as they begin to break dormancy.
2) DO "starve" the plants.Fertilizing your plants before they are actively growing often results in the build up of salts in the soil which leads to stress and may causes losses due to dehydration or disease. Instead, begin fertilizing within a couple weeks after the plants begin to break dormancy.
3) DO check on your plants even when they are dormant. Continue to check on your plants weekly even when they appear to be dormant. Watch for the first signs of any root and crown rot. Also, keep the soil surface clear of moss and other weeds that will rob your plants of the proper water and nutrition once they break dormancy. At the first signs of new growth, watch for insects such as aphids which are attracted to tender new growth.
4) DO expect something wonderful!Even though some perennials may wait to make their grand entrance in the spring, with a little patience and care, you will reap the rewards with vigorously growing, beautiful plants!
The following perennials are typically slow to break dormancy in the spring. However, most compensate for their tardiness with vigorous growth once they begin.
Asclepias
Buddleia
Echinacea
Hibiscus (very late)
Hosta tokudama and fortunei types
Houttuynia
Lathyrus latifolius
Perovskia
Platycodon
Tricyrtis
Warm season grasses such as Miscanthus, Erianthus, and Panicum
PERENNIAL PICK OF THE WEEK
DIANTHUS 'FIREWITCH
This week, we are highlighting 'Firewitch', the 2006 Perennial Plant Association Plant of the Year. 'Firewitch' has been problem-free. It has required few inputs to produce a great crop. Very little fertilizer and water is required, which resulted in strong, hardened-off plants that are compact, healthy, and more readily resistant to pathogens. 'Firewitch' thrived in our greenhouses during a very warm and dry summer under light shade (about 30%).
Quick Growing Tips: Dianthus thrives when grown consistently somewhat dry or watered sufficiently and then allowed to dry down thoroughly. We provide the plants with just enough water to sustain good growth, but do not keep the soil too wet at any point. Soil that stays wet for too long will significantly slow down the root growth of 'Firewitch'.
FertilizingTo keep the foliage from stretching, which requires more trimming than desired, we fertilize our Dianthus very little. While we grow them lean, occasional applications of liquid feed may be applied to encourage the foliage to bulk up a little quicker.
This week, we are highlighting 'Firewitch', the 2006 Perennial Plant Association Plant of the Year. 'Firewitch' has been problem-free. It has required few inputs to produce a great crop. Very little fertilizer and water is required, which resulted in strong, hardened-off plants that are compact, healthy, and more readily resistant to pathogens. 'Firewitch' thrived in our greenhouses during a very warm and dry summer under light shade (about 30%).
Quick Growing Tips: Dianthus thrives when grown consistently somewhat dry or watered sufficiently and then allowed to dry down thoroughly. We provide the plants with just enough water to sustain good growth, but do not keep the soil too wet at any point. Soil that stays wet for too long will significantly slow down the root growth of 'Firewitch'.
FertilizingTo keep the foliage from stretching, which requires more trimming than desired, we fertilize our Dianthus very little. While we grow them lean, occasional applications of liquid feed may be applied to encourage the foliage to bulk up a little quicker.
Pests and Diseases'Firewitch' is a strong grower that is generally not as prone to disease as some Dianthus cultivars. This characteristic, combined with judicious water and fertilizer management, will keep the crop healthy. You can be confident in purchasing 'Firewitch' from Greenscape Gardens.
Hot New Daylily‘Mean Mister Mustard,’ a new daylily, features a 6-inch mustard yellow flower with a wine-red eye and picotee edge. It also offers an amazing bud count and 70-plus days of color. Hardy to Zone 4, ‘Mean Mister Mustard’ has its own point-of-purchase system, a coordinating color pot and proprietary die-cut labels the shape of a mustard jar. The name – ‘Mean Mister Mustard’ – is the name of a popular Beatles song from the Abbey Road album about a grouchy, colorful man.
AAS ANNOUNCES WINNING VARIETIES
All-America Selections has announced four winning varieties for 2009, including three vegetables and a viola.
Eggplant ‘Gretel’ is the earliest white eggplant. The glossy pure white fruits are produced in clusters and can be harvested in 55 days when 3 to 4 inches long. Bred by Seminis Vegetable Seeds, the mature plant reaches three feet tall and wide, perfectly adapted to the trend of growing vegetables in containers.
‘Honey Bear’ squash is a compact, bushy plant that is powdery mildew-tolerant, allowing the delicious winter acorn squash to be grown in smaller space gardens. Bred by the University Of New Hampshire, plants produce 3 to 5 dark green acorn squash weighing about a pound. ‘Honey Bear’ mature plants are 2 to 3 feet tall and spread 4 to 5 feet.
‘Lambkin’ melon was bred by Known-You Seed Company Ltd. as a gourmet breakfast or dessert for people who love melon. Its distinctive visual feature is its smooth, yellow skin with green mottling. The oval-shaped melon matures early, about 67 to 75 days from transplanting. The thin rind surrounds sweet, aromatic white juicy melon. ‘Lambkin’ melons store better than other melons, enabling gardeners to enjoy the unique flavor longer. Available to growers from their favorite seed company.
‘Rain Blue And Purple’ viola changes from purple and white to purple and blue as it matures. This results in a spreading pool of cool blue shades. ‘Rain Blue And Purple’ plants will spread 10 to 14 inches, making them perfect for container plantings or spaces between stepping stones. Bred by Tokita Seed Co. Ltd., it exhibits heat and cold tolerance. Find out more at www.all-americaselections.org
Tuesday, March 04, 2008
Saturday, March 01, 2008
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COLOR TRENDS FOR 2008: SHADES OF NATURE
COLOR TRENDS FOR 2008: SHADES OF NATURE
Colors inspired by nature are very popular this year.
According to the Cone Environmental Report, 88% of consumers are as or more interested in the environment today than they were just one year ago. Everywhere you look, people are talking about environmental issues like global warming, biofuels, and organic food. Celebrities and politicians have joined the awareness campaign, showing younger generations that it's cool to be environmentally responsible. Is this just a trend? Research confirms that concern and heightened awareness for the environment has become mainstream; it's here to stay.
What does environmentalism have to do with the color trends for 2008? Everything. Designers of everything from celebrity evening gowns to patio furniture are picking up on the eco-trends and responding by producing textiles in tones pulled straight from nature: earthy green, ocean blue, yellow-green, deep iris blue, natural linen, and chocolate brown.
The Pantone Color Institute® has chosen Blue Iris for the 2008 color of the year. "It brings together the dependable aspect of blue underscored by a strong, soul-searching purple cast," according to Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of PCI. However, the Director of The Color Association, Margret Walsh, has other ideas. She says their color of the year is Bamboo, "a strong green hinted with yellow which represents the changing social desire to be more environmentally clean." Fashion designers are favoring shades of blue as well as natural rock and soil colors this year. In short, the trend for 2008 is to look "green", no matter what colors you're using. Pulling colors straight from nature is the way to do it.
How will these 2008 color trends play out in the home landscape? Imagine an intimate, serene shade garden filled with green Hostas and ferns, yellow-green Heucheras, and deep blue Siberian Irises. Lounge chairs with fluffy ivory linen cushions beckon you over for a nap on your cool slate patio. A bubbling water feature lulls you into dreamland.
This is how today's gardener connects with their landscape. One half of all consumers use their garden for relaxation or as a spiritual retreat according to the Garden Media Group. They want a safe, private space to enjoy the outdoors and reconnect with the earth on their own time. Can we, the original "Green Industry", help them accomplish this? Be ready to meet their demands this spring with a full stock of earthy green, ocean blue, deep iris blue, natural linen, and chocolate brown perennials.
What does environmentalism have to do with the color trends for 2008? Everything. Designers of everything from celebrity evening gowns to patio furniture are picking up on the eco-trends and responding by producing textiles in tones pulled straight from nature: earthy green, ocean blue, yellow-green, deep iris blue, natural linen, and chocolate brown.
The Pantone Color Institute® has chosen Blue Iris for the 2008 color of the year. "It brings together the dependable aspect of blue underscored by a strong, soul-searching purple cast," according to Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of PCI. However, the Director of The Color Association, Margret Walsh, has other ideas. She says their color of the year is Bamboo, "a strong green hinted with yellow which represents the changing social desire to be more environmentally clean." Fashion designers are favoring shades of blue as well as natural rock and soil colors this year. In short, the trend for 2008 is to look "green", no matter what colors you're using. Pulling colors straight from nature is the way to do it.
How will these 2008 color trends play out in the home landscape? Imagine an intimate, serene shade garden filled with green Hostas and ferns, yellow-green Heucheras, and deep blue Siberian Irises. Lounge chairs with fluffy ivory linen cushions beckon you over for a nap on your cool slate patio. A bubbling water feature lulls you into dreamland.
This is how today's gardener connects with their landscape. One half of all consumers use their garden for relaxation or as a spiritual retreat according to the Garden Media Group. They want a safe, private space to enjoy the outdoors and reconnect with the earth on their own time. Can we, the original "Green Industry", help them accomplish this? Be ready to meet their demands this spring with a full stock of earthy green, ocean blue, deep iris blue, natural linen, and chocolate brown perennials.
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Monday, February 25, 2008
Friday, February 22, 2008
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
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