Greenscape Gardens
Thursday, May 05, 2005
THE OLD SIGN PHILOSOPHER, THOUGHTS FOR THE DAY!
MOTHER'S DAY ROSES......FLOWERS FOR 6 MONTHS
IF IT AIN'T FIXED.....DON'T BREAK IT AGAIN
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
DON'T PITCH THOSE PLASTIC GARDEN POTS!
WHAT: Plastic Pot Recycling and "Pots to Planks" plastic lumber program
WHEN: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. weekends only, May 21-22, 28-29; June 4-5, 11-12, 18-19 and 25-26
WHERE: Monsanto Center of the Missouri Botanical Garden, west parking lot 4500 Shaw Blvd. at Vandeventer
SPONSORS: Missouri Botanical Garden, the St. Louis-Jefferson Solid Waste Management District, Missouri Environmental Improvement and Energy Resource Authority, the Missouri Department of Natural Resources and Monrovia, Inc.
INFO: www.mobot.org/hort/activ/plasticpots.shtml or (314) 577-9440
(ST. LOUIS): The Missouri Botanical Garden has expanded its popular Plastic Pot Recycling program to six weekends this spring and summer, due to enthusiastic response. Bring clean plastic garden pots and trays to the Garden's Monsanto Center, 4500 Shaw Blvd. at Vandeventer, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekends only beginning May 21 through June 26 and receive a complimentary admission pass for two to the Garden. The Monsanto Center will be the only collection center in the area this year.
"We are pleasantly surprised at the continued response by area gardeners to recycle their horticultural plastic each year," said Dr. Steven Cline, who started the program in 1998 and manages the Kemper Center for Home Gardening. Plastic garden pots and trays should be cleaned in advance and free of wire hangers. No household plastic will be accepted. Gardeners are encouraged to save their pots and trays all year long for this annual event.
Each person who recycles garden plastic will receive one admission pass, redeemable for a Garden visit for two. Passes will only be distributed during the collection hours of 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on May 21-22, 28-29, June 4-5, 11-12, 18-19, and 25-26.
Over 90 volunteers assist the collection efforts. This year they hope to collect and process 60,000 pounds of plastic, an increase of one third over last year's goal. Weekend collections have totaled over 350,000 pounds since the program was initiated.
Monrovia, Inc., the largest grower of containerized plants in the U. S., has granted $5,000 in support of this collection program in 2005 to acknowledge the environmental leadership that such an effort can make in the horticulture industry. The St. Louis-Jefferson Solid Waste Management District, Missouri Environmental Improvement and Energy Recycling Authority and the Missouri Department of Natural Resources have also assisted with program funding. Their support has allowed the purchase of additional equipment necessary to process larger containers and bulk quantities from the public and horticulture industry. Increased mechanical capacity also affords a larger geographic collection from adjacent Solid Waste Districts.
Collected plastic will be shredded and chipped on site and sent to Environmental Recycling, Inc. of St. Louis. The recycled material will be made into two- by six-inch planks of lumber, which will then be sold as kits to home gardeners to build raised garden beds. Last year 40,000 pounds of collected plastic was converted into approximately 13,000 linear feet of lumber and sold back to the public over a nine-month period.
"Our hope is to affect how the horticultural industry could assist in managing this annual 350 million pound waste system in the U. S., and to change the public view of recycling into one that inspires product development, as we have done here," said Dr. Cline. An example of a garden bed made from recycled lumber is on display at the Garden's Kemper Center for Home Gardening, 4344 Shaw Blvd.
The Pots to Planks brochure and order form is available online at www.mobot.org/hort/activ/plasticpots.shtml. Gardeners can place an order now for the recycled lumber and raised bed kits to be delivered in August. Supply is limited, so call the plastic lumber hotline at (314) 577-9443 to learn about availability.
MOTHER'S DAY ROSES......FLOWERS FOR 6 MONTHS
IF IT AIN'T FIXED.....DON'T BREAK IT AGAIN
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
DON'T PITCH THOSE PLASTIC GARDEN POTS!
WHAT: Plastic Pot Recycling and "Pots to Planks" plastic lumber program
WHEN: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. weekends only, May 21-22, 28-29; June 4-5, 11-12, 18-19 and 25-26
WHERE: Monsanto Center of the Missouri Botanical Garden, west parking lot 4500 Shaw Blvd. at Vandeventer
SPONSORS: Missouri Botanical Garden, the St. Louis-Jefferson Solid Waste Management District, Missouri Environmental Improvement and Energy Resource Authority, the Missouri Department of Natural Resources and Monrovia, Inc.
INFO: www.mobot.org/hort/activ/plasticpots.shtml or (314) 577-9440
(ST. LOUIS): The Missouri Botanical Garden has expanded its popular Plastic Pot Recycling program to six weekends this spring and summer, due to enthusiastic response. Bring clean plastic garden pots and trays to the Garden's Monsanto Center, 4500 Shaw Blvd. at Vandeventer, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekends only beginning May 21 through June 26 and receive a complimentary admission pass for two to the Garden. The Monsanto Center will be the only collection center in the area this year.
"We are pleasantly surprised at the continued response by area gardeners to recycle their horticultural plastic each year," said Dr. Steven Cline, who started the program in 1998 and manages the Kemper Center for Home Gardening. Plastic garden pots and trays should be cleaned in advance and free of wire hangers. No household plastic will be accepted. Gardeners are encouraged to save their pots and trays all year long for this annual event.
Each person who recycles garden plastic will receive one admission pass, redeemable for a Garden visit for two. Passes will only be distributed during the collection hours of 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on May 21-22, 28-29, June 4-5, 11-12, 18-19, and 25-26.
Over 90 volunteers assist the collection efforts. This year they hope to collect and process 60,000 pounds of plastic, an increase of one third over last year's goal. Weekend collections have totaled over 350,000 pounds since the program was initiated.
Monrovia, Inc., the largest grower of containerized plants in the U. S., has granted $5,000 in support of this collection program in 2005 to acknowledge the environmental leadership that such an effort can make in the horticulture industry. The St. Louis-Jefferson Solid Waste Management District, Missouri Environmental Improvement and Energy Recycling Authority and the Missouri Department of Natural Resources have also assisted with program funding. Their support has allowed the purchase of additional equipment necessary to process larger containers and bulk quantities from the public and horticulture industry. Increased mechanical capacity also affords a larger geographic collection from adjacent Solid Waste Districts.
Collected plastic will be shredded and chipped on site and sent to Environmental Recycling, Inc. of St. Louis. The recycled material will be made into two- by six-inch planks of lumber, which will then be sold as kits to home gardeners to build raised garden beds. Last year 40,000 pounds of collected plastic was converted into approximately 13,000 linear feet of lumber and sold back to the public over a nine-month period.
"Our hope is to affect how the horticultural industry could assist in managing this annual 350 million pound waste system in the U. S., and to change the public view of recycling into one that inspires product development, as we have done here," said Dr. Cline. An example of a garden bed made from recycled lumber is on display at the Garden's Kemper Center for Home Gardening, 4344 Shaw Blvd.
The Pots to Planks brochure and order form is available online at www.mobot.org/hort/activ/plasticpots.shtml. Gardeners can place an order now for the recycled lumber and raised bed kits to be delivered in August. Supply is limited, so call the plastic lumber hotline at (314) 577-9443 to learn about availability.
Sunday, May 01, 2005
THE OLD SIGN PHILOSOPHER, THOUGHTS FOR THE DAY!
Nothing is certain.....except the past
Eating your words......never causes indigestion
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The weather has been cold but the website has been sizzling. Over 39,xxx website views have been recorded with over 1200 in less than a week. Its hard to believe but over 148,xxx webpages have been viewed with over 5575 in less than a week. Hopefully in the next couple of months, I can learn front page and download a ton of new information. Thanks St. Louis.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Currently, the May/June beetle is flying around neighborhoods in the St. Louis area. The adults are ½ to 1 inch in length and are a reddish-brown to black color. At this time these adults often crash into the sides of houses and into windows. Since the May/June beetle is nocturnal they are active during nighttime hours. The adults will not cause damage to ornamentals unless large numbers of the adults are present. Larvae of these beetles are white grubs, with feeding habits similar to masked chafer and Japanese beetle grubs.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
THE CONTAINER GARDEN ALTERNATIVE
Tired of spending money on annuals for your containers every spring? Why not use perennials instead? Gardeners and money conscience homeowners everywhere are learning the benefits of container gardening with perennials.
With so many varieties of perennials to choose from for sun and shade, it's now possible to create combinations that are just as appealing and colorful as those made with annuals alone, and the best part is that you don't have to replant them every year. Sure, you can mix an annual or two in your perennial combination pot, but that certainly isn't necessary if you choose your perennials wisely. You'll learn more about plant selection below.
Greenscape Gardens has created some container gardens consisting of perennials and annuals this past year.
WHO would want to grow containerized perennials?
Maybe you can identify with the idea of not wanting to spend the time and money on new container plantings every year. But container gardens are also perfect for people who don't have the space for or energy to tend an entire garden. After all, there are far fewer weeds to pull and plants to deadhead in containers! Some of our customers live in apartments and condominiums where container gardening is the only option. Some have physical limitations that prohibit them from getting down and dirty in the garden. For them, bringing the containers up to their level for planting is the best option. In short, container gardening with perennials is for everyone!
WHY would you want to grow perennials in containers?
There are many advantages, over and above cost and convenience, to growing perennials in containers. Here are some you might not have considered:
• It gives the gardener a head start of at least a month over those planting only annuals because perennials can handle colder weather. This means that instead of waiting until after Mother's Day to plant up your containers with annuals, you can have beautiful containers in April! If you just have to have annuals in your containers, you can add them after the last frost date.
• It allows the gardener to grow things that wouldn't normally grow in their soil or climate. For example, in St. Louis clay, you can grow perennials that prefer lighter soil in containers and then place the container in your garden. Similarly, if your soil is alkaline, you can grow acid-loving perennials in containers. You can cheat your zone by planting non-hardy or marginally hardy plants in containers and then move them indoors for the winter months. Many gardeners are doing just that since the trend of using tropical plants in the garden began a couple of years ago. You can also use decorative pots to contain perennials that may be invasive in the garden but are still worth growing.
• Containers can be rearranged to give the appearance of continuous bloom throughout the season. Place them in a prominent place, such as on a front porch, when they are in full bloom, then rotate them out when they are finished. If there is a spot in the garden that is all-green during parts of the season, add a pot of flowering perennials there to liven up the space and add visual interest. Design your container plantings to coordinate with the seasons, so you have something in bloom for spring, summer, and fall.
• The container itself can add an architectural element to the garden. Sometimes it's not what you put in the pot that's most important--sometimes it's the pot itself that holds the interest. This is especially true if the container is very large, brightly colored, or uniquely shaped.
WHERE is it appropriate to use containerized perennials?
Perennial containers can be used anyplace you would normally use annuals. In fact, perennials offer you more options for the shade because there is a greater number of varieties that will grow there. Say goodbye to impatiens and hello to hostas, coral bells, lamiums, and many, many more perennials!
Before planting up your containers, decide where you want to place them in the yard. This will help you make wiser decisions on the types of plants to include in the pots. Consider where the primary viewing point will be from and design from that angle. Keep in mind that plants in windy locations or those exposed to the hotter afternoon sun will need to be watered more often than those placed in more sheltered, shadier locations.
HOW can I make my own great looking perennial containers?
Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through each step of the process, from choosing a container, to knowing which perennials to use, to how to maintain and overwinter them.
Choosing a Container
• Just about anything that holds soil can be used as a container. The only requirement is that it has at least one drainage hole. (See the "Drainage" section below for detailed information.) You can use containers made of clay, wood, metal, plastic, or other materials; each material has its advantages and drawbacks. Some experimentation on your part will reveal what works best for you. Plastic is lighter and the soil doesn't dry out as fast, but it isn't always the most aesthetically pleasing choice. Clay containers are attractive, but those that are not painted lose moisture more rapidly than just about any other material. They are also very heavy and cannot be left outside over the winter in northern climates. Imitation clay pots, which are actually made of a sturdy type of foam, are very attractive and lightweight. Many do not come with drainage holes in the bottom, but the material is very easy to drill through so you can make the holes yourself.
• If you are planning on grouping a set of pots, it is more visually pleasing if they are different sizes but have a continuous theme such as pot color or material.
• When it comes to planting perennials in containers, the rule of thumb is the bigger the pot the better. First, perennials have larger root systems than annuals, so they require more space to grow well. Second, perennials in bigger pots have a better chance of overwintering successfully. (Read more about this in the "Overwintering" section below.)
• When choosing a container, try to coordinate the pot type and color with the surroundings it which it will be placed. If you are planning on using the pots in the garden amongst other plants, you may want to use one that is made of a natural material, such as wood, to help it blend in with its surroundings. This takes the focus off the pot and places the emphasis on the plants. Also, try to match the degree of formality of the container with the style of its surroundings. For example, a basket of flowers would look more appropriate on the porch of a cottage style house than would a tall, stately urn. The urn would look better at the entrance to a formal garden.
• If you are trying to create a focal point with your container, you may want to choose one in a bright color and plant it up with foliage plants of a sharply contrasting color (ie. a bright blue pot planted up with chartreuse foliage). If you want it to stand out as an architectural element, choose a large container with an interesting shape that contrasts with its surroundings (ie. a tall, narrow container placed beside a round, mounded plant).
Drainage
• Good drainage is absolutely essential for your containerized perennials unless you are trying to create a water garden. Any container you use must have at least one drainage hole. If the pot you choose does not have a hole in the bottom, make one yourself with a drill (there are special bits that can cut into just about any material) or don't use it.
• Before you fill the container with soil, it's a good idea to follow these steps:
1. Screen the drainage holes so the soil doesn't fall out of the bottom of the pot. Some materials that work well for this include landscape fabric (trim to fit bottom of pot) or self-adhesive fiberglass drywall joint tape. The tape comes in a roll; just cut a square to fit over the hole.
2. Add a drainage layer to the bottom of the container. Some people like to use pea gravel or pottery shards for this. A mesh bag filled with styrofoam peanuts works just as well and is much lighter. This might work better for you if you plan on moving your containers around the yard.
Choosing a Potting Soil
• Any good potting soil can be used with containerized perennials. Not all potting soil is created equally, though, and with this item you usually get what you pay for. If a bag of potting soil feels just as heavy as a bag of topsoil, it's not what you want. Potting soil should be lighter. Miracle Grow makes an excellent potting mix with the fertilizer already mixed in, which is great for gardeners who don't like to spend the time or money on fertilizing. If you are using plants that prefer to grow in sand or scree, you'll need to make those accommodations.
• Test the pH of the soil. Meters that measure pH are easy to use and are available at most nurseries. The $12 or so purchase is a good investment. This meter will measure the degree of acidity or alkalinity of your soil.
---Acid loving plants need soil with a pH lower than 6.5.
---Alkaline loving plants need soil with a pH higher than 7.5.
---Those that prefer neutral soil like it between 6.5 and 7.5.
• It is important to know what kind of soil the perennials yo u are using in your containers prefer. If your soil is not in the correct pH range, the plant will not grow well if it grows at all. To make soil more acidic (to lower the pH), add aluminum sulphate or garden sulphur to the soil. To make the soil more alkaline (to raise the pH), add lime to the soil.
• Since daily watering slowly flushes the nutrients out of the soil, it's a good idea to supplement with small amounts of liquid fertilizer a couple of months after potting up the containers. You will know it's time to add fertilizer when your normally healthy plants begin to show signs of decline (leaves will appear light green or slightly yellow).
Plant Selection
Before we get into the design principles of container plantings, let's first talk about selecting plants based on their cultural preferences. Most of all, the plants you use have to work together, not just look good together. This means that you will need to pair varieties with similar cultural needs if they are going to be able to grow in the same container. First, pair shade loving perennials with other shade lovers, not with those that prefer sun. Second, pay attention to the type of soil that each plant likes. Important factors include type of soil (sandy v. those rich in humus), pH (acid v. alkaline), and moisture (dry v. moist).
Combine only those perennials that enjoy the same cultural requirements and you will have beautiful, hassle-free containers. If you want to grow plants with differing requirements, you can do so, but in separate pots.
The choice of plant material is critical to good design when working in small spaces like containers. Pay particular attention to foliage color, texture, and habit first, and then select plants for their flower color, size, form, and bloom time second. When working with perennials, understand that the flowers are a secondary point of interest because, unlike annuals, they appear only for a limited amount of time. A well-designed perennial container will look great even when the plants are not in bloom.
A landscape designer on Home and Garden television said it best when he said you should design the garden based on "Thrillers, Fillers, and Spillers". This is a handy way to remember the three types of plants essential to good design. "Thrillers" are the plants that command attention, like the tall spike in the center of a pot of geraniums. With perennials, since the blooms are not typically present for a long period, thrillers are usually plants with interesting architectural shape or colored foliage. "Spillers" are the plants that typically spill over the sides of the container, visually blending the container and its contents into one. "Fillers" are the plants that take up the space between the thrillers and the spillers. They typically make the planting look fuller and more finished.
Your container garden can include all three of these design elements (thrillers, fillers, and spillers) or you may choose instead to plant up your container with only one type of plant. Not every container you plant needs to have a combination of different varieties. For greater visual interest, you should include a pot or two of a single plant. For example, a single mature hosta in a large pot is stunning, especially when surrounded by containers of combination plantings.
Some practical considerations to keep in mind when choosing plants for containers:
• Compact, mounding or clumping plants typically grow better in containers than spreading ones. Those that spread will outgrow their container and require transplanting sooner than the clumping types.
• Because of root constraints, most perennials (especially the larger ones) will not grow to their mature size in a container like they would in the ground. For instance, a plant that would grow 3 feet tall in the garden may only get half as tall in a container. So if you would like your container to look really full the first year, start with more mature plants to begin with.
• Shade plantings rely heavily on interesting foliage because they typically do not bloom as long as their sunny counterparts. Design first for foliage, leaving the flowers for secondary interest. This is a good place to use plants with strong architectural interest.
• If you are planning on overwintering your container outdoors or in an unheated area, choose plants that are very hardy in your area (ie. ones that are two or more zones hardier than your zone) to increase their chances of overwintering successfully. (See below for detailed information on overwintering and for a list of perennials that typically overwinter well in containers.)
How to Plant the Container
1. Start with a clean container. Be sure to disinfect previously used pots with a mild bleach solution.
2. You'll want the finished planting depth of your plants to be the same as it was in the pots they were grown in originally. Keep this depth in mind as you start to fill the container with soil.
3. When planting the design, it's often easiest to place the "thriller", or focal plant, first and then add the "fillers" second. Tuck in the "spillers" around the edges of the container last.
4. If the plants you are using have become root bound in their original pots, you'll need to gently tease the roots apart so they will be able to spread out in their new container. If the root ball is a solid mass, make a few vertical slits in it with a knife and splay it out in the new container. (It's best to buy plants that are not pot bound in the first place!)
5. Be sure to leave about one inch of space between the soil line and the top of the container so the soil doesn't wash out when you water the plants.
6. Press the soil firmly around the roots to eliminate any large air pockets and then water thoroughly.
Watering
• Plants in containers generally need to be watered more frequently than those in the ground. Most will need to be watered daily, some even more often if the weather is particularly sunny or windy. Also, as discussed under "Choosing a Container" above, the material the pot is made of will have an effect on how often the plants need to be watered.
• When watering, do not simply place the hose or watering wand over the pot and sprinkle. This is a very inefficient method of watering because much of the water never reaches the soil. Instead, stick the hose or wand in the pot at soil level. Use a gentle stream of water, not full power, or the soil will be washed out of the container.
• When watering, it is beneficial to let approximately 10% of the water flush through the pot after the plant has had a good drink. This helps to dissolve and wash away any build up of salts in the soil, a common problem in containers. Too much salt in the soil can kill the plants.
• Regular morning watering is best. This allows the plants to dry out before nightfall, avoiding potential disease issues. Regularity is very important. Plants will not grow as well if they allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Potting soil is often difficult to re-wet once it has been allowed to dry out, making it impossible for it to provide moisture for the roots.
Maintenance and Grooming
• To maintain their best appearance and to promote rebloom, keep the plants deadheaded (remove spent blossoms). Also, remove any yellowing or dead foliage as soon as it appears.
• Once plants have been growing in the same pot for several months, some of the nutrients in the soil will have been washed away. Supplement with a weak solution of liquid fertilizer every 3-4 weeks to keep your plants healthy and happy.
• It's a good idea to repot containerized perennials each spring. Give them fresh, nutrient-packed soil with some slow-release fertilizer mixed in and they will reward you with vigorous, healthy new growth. This is also a good time to divide any plants that have grown too large for the container and either repot them into a larger one or plant them in the garden.
Overwintering Containerized Perennials
Chances are, if you have taken the time to design, plant, and tend your perennial container garden all season long, you are going to want to overwinter it. Some gardeners choose to treat perennials like annuals, however, and simply toss them out after the season is over. Others choose to transplant their containerized perennials into the garden for the winter and then start over fresh with new plants in the spring. The choice is yours. If you'd like to try overwintering, read on.
Why do containerized perennials require special treatment to overwinter successfully?
• Temperature fluctuations are greater above ground than below it, and perennials do not like this.
• Perennials are less cold-hardy when grown in containers, so there is a greater chance for injury.
• Keep in mind that the bigger the pot, the higher success rate you will have in overwintering. This is because there is a larger volume of soil in a bigger pot to help insulate the roots, protecting them from freezing and desiccating.
• In warmer climates or those with a reliable, thick layer of snow cover, perennials are generally easier to overwinter. In the north and in places with unreliable snow cover, it requires more work to get them to pull through the winter.
Regardless of your climate, containerized perennials should be watered thoroughly just before the ground freezes to give them a reserve supply to use during warm winter spells. You can also add a few handfuls of snow to the top of the container occasionally throughout the winter (if overwintering under cover); this will provide supplemental water for the plants if the temperatures rise enough for it to melt.
This said, many containerized perennials do not survive the winter because they get too much water and they drown. When the pot accumulates water at the top but the soil is still frozen at the bottom, the roots sit in water until the soil thaws all the way through and the water can escape through the drainage hole at the bottom. Roots hate to sit in water, especially freezing cold water in winter. Avoid this scenario by overwintering your containerized perennials tipped on their side so water cannot accumulate at the top of the pot, or overwinter them under cover where they will not receive much water during winter or early spring before the soil thaws.
Overwintering Techniques:
There are many differing opinions on how to best overwinter containerized perennials. Some of the methods described here may work for your climate while others may not. Trial and error is the best way to find out what will work best for you.
• The general consensus seems to be that the best way to overwinter containerized perennials is to take the entire pot and bury it in the ground. This way, the roots are protected like they would be if the plants were actually planted in the garden. Just be sure not to leave the pot in the ground too long in the spring or the roots will start to grow out the drainage holes, anchoring the pot into the ground.
• You can overwinter them by moving the pots into a cold frame or unheated garage for the winter after the first hard frost. Since all perennials require a period of dormancy or a cold treatment to bloom, don't overwinter them in a greenhouse or other warm place where they will not go dormant.
• If you are overwintering your containers outside, place a grouping of pots as close together as possible in a sheltered site on the ground. This way, the pots can absorb the heat and moisture from the soil. The east side of the house typically is a good spot. Do not overwinter the containers on pavement or any other surface (such as a deck) raised above ground level.
Containerized perennials left exposed on higher levels during the winter have little chance of overwintering successfully.
• You'll need to cover the pots with some sort of insulating material. Try mounding leaves or evergreen boughs on top of the pots, followed by a thick layer of snow. If snow is not reliable in your area, use an insulating blanket made expressly for this purpose. You can also try wrapping the pots themselves in some sort of insulating material for extra protection.
Perennials That Typically Overwinter Well in Containers
Achillea (Yarrow)
Ajuga (Bugleweed)
Alchemilla (Lady's Mantle)
Armeria (Common Thrift, Sea Pink)
Aster
Bergenia (Heartleaf Bergenia, Pig Squeak)
Brunnera
Campanula (Bellflower)
Cerastium (Snow in Summer)
Clematis
Coreopsis (Tickseed)
Dendranthema (Hardy Garden Mum)
Dianthus (Pinks)
Echinacea (Coneflower)
Ferns
Geranium-Hardy (Cranesbill)
Hemerocallis (Daylily)
Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Heucherella (Foamy Bells)
Hosta
Houttuynia (Chameleon Plant)
Iris ensata (Japanese Iris)
Lamium
Lysimachia nummularia (Creeping Jenny, Moneywort)
Lysimachia punctata (Variegated Loosestrife)
Myosotis (Forget-Me-Not)
Phlox subulata (Creeping Phlox)
Polemonium (Jacob's Ladder)
Primula (Primrose)
Pulmonaria (Lungwort, Bethlehem Sage)
Salvia-Perennial
Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower)
Sedum (Stonecrop)
Sempervivum (Hen & Chicks)
Thymus (Creeping Thyme)
Tiarella (Foamflower)
Tradescantia (Spiderwort)
Perennial Combination Container Ideas
Made for the Shade #1
A. Aquilegia 'Blue Shades' (Columbine)
B. Asarum splendens (Chinese Wild Ginger)
C. Astilbe 'Rock and Roll' PP14855
D. Carex m. 'Ice Dance' (Variegated Sedge)
E. Heuchera 'Gypsy Dancer' PPAF (Coral Bells)
Made for the Shade #2
A. Helleborus 'Blackthorn Strain' (Lenten Rose)
B. Corydalis sempervirens
C. Hedera h. 'Golden Ingot' (English Ivy)
D. Aquilegia v. 'Black Barlow' (Columbine)
E. Hosta 'Touch of Class' PP13080
F. Lysimachia nummularia (Moneywort or Creeping Jenny)
Made for the Shade #3
A. Hosta 'Ice Follies' PPAF
B. Athyrium n. 'Red Beauty' (Japanese Painted Fern)
C. Astilbe 'Elisabeth van Veen'
D. Tiarella 'Pirate's Patch' PPAF (Foamflower)
E. Liriope m. 'Big Blue' (Blue Lily-turf)
Made for the Shade #4--Emphasis on Foliage
A. Carex m. 'Oehme' (Variegated Palm Sedge)
B. Athyrium filix-femina (Lady Fern)
C. Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Splash' (Lungwort or Bethlehem Sage)
D. Vinca 'Dart's Blue' (Periwinkle, Myrtle)
Consistently Moist Soil & Part Shade
A. Carex m. 'Oehme' (Variegated Palm Sedge)
B. Ligularia t. 'Cristata'
C. Corydalis lutea
D. Hosta 'Lakeside Looking Glass'
E. Lysimachia n. 'Aurea' (Moneywort or Creeping Jenny)
Late Spring Bloomers--Full Sun or Light Shade
A. Delphinium g. 'Blue Butterfly' (Dwarf Delphinium)
B. Dianthus b. 'Rose Magic' Amazon Series (Perennial Sweet William)
C. Polemonium r. 'Stairway to Heaven' PPAF (Variegated Jacob's Ladder)
D. Heuchera 'Sparkling Burgundy' PPAF (Coral Bells)
E. Veronica u. 'Georgia Blue' (Creeping Veronica)
F. Salvia p. 'Rose Rhapsody' (Meadow Sage)
Red, White, & Blue Combination with Trellis
A. Clematis (red)
B. Clematis (blue or purple)
C. Tanacetum n. 'Jackpot' (White Tansy)
D. Geum f. p.'Blazing Sunset' (Avens)
E. Geranium 'Brookside' (Hardy Geranium or Cranesbill)
F. Cerastium t. 'Yo Yo' (Snow in Summer)
Fall Bloomers--Full Sun & Average Soil
A. Aconitum fischeri (Azure Monkshood)
B. Aster d. 'Wood's Purple' (New York Aster)
C. Caryopteris d. 'Snow Fairy' (Blue Mist Shrub)
D. Echinacea p. 'Ruby Giant' (Purple Coneflower)
E. Lamium m. 'Orchid Frost' PP11122
Combination for a Dry, Sunny Space
A. Agastache 'Black Adder' (Anise Hyssop)
B. Belamcanda c. 'Hello Yellow' (Blackberry Lily)
C. Calamintha n. 'Blue Cloud' (Calamint)
D. Delosperma congestum (Ice Plant)
E. Dianthus 'Bewitched' PP13159 (Pinks)
No Maintenance Container--Full Sun & Dry Soil
A. Verbascum 'Sunshine Spires' PPAF (Mullein)
B. Stokesia l. 'Honeysong Purple' (Stokes' Aster)
C. Sempervivum 'Purple Beauty' (Hen & Chicks)
D. Sagina subulata (Irish Moss)
E. Sedum 'Rosy Glow' (Stonecrop)
Attracts Butterflies--Full Sun & Average Soil
A. Coreopsis p. 'Sunshine Superman' (Star Tickseed)
B. Leucanthemum s. 'Highland White Dream' (Shasta Daisy)
C. Liriope m. 'Silvery Sunproof' (Lily-turf)
D. Lobelia s. 'Fan Scarlet' (Cardinal Flower)
E. Lysimachia nummularia (Moneywort or Creeping Jenny)
Pink Monochromatic Combination--Full Sun
A. Sedum s. 'Brilliant' (Showy Stonecrop)
B. Gaura l. 'Passionate Rainbow' PPAF (Wand Flower)
C. Hemerocallis 'Dark and Handsome' (Daylily)
D. Scabiosa c. n. 'Pincushion Pink' (Dwarf Pincushion Flower)
E. Heuchera 'Green Spice' (Coral Bells)
Herb Pot--Full Sun
A. Lavandula a. 'Dwarf Blue' (English Lavender)
B. Artemisia d. 'Sativa' (True French Tarragon)
C. Teucrium c. 'Summer Sunshine' (Germander)
D. Thymus p. 'Coccineus' (Red Creeping Thyme)
Native Roots--Full Sun
A. Echinacea 'Twilight' PPAF, Big Sky TM Series (Coneflower)
B. Gaura l. 'Whirling Butterflies' (Wand Flower)
C. Heuchera 'Black Beauty' PP13288 (Coral Bells)
D. Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed)
E. Nepeta 'Kit Cat' (Catmint)
Mini Water Garden--Constantly Wet Soil
A. Juncus e. 'Frenzy' (Variegated Corkscrew Rush)
B. Hibiscus m. 'Mallow Marvels' (Rose Mallow)
C. Acorus g. 'Golden Pheasant' PPAF (Sweet Flag)
D. Asclepias i. 'Cinderella' (Swamp Milkweed)
E. Iris ensata (Japanese Iris)
Nothing is certain.....except the past
Eating your words......never causes indigestion
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The weather has been cold but the website has been sizzling. Over 39,xxx website views have been recorded with over 1200 in less than a week. Its hard to believe but over 148,xxx webpages have been viewed with over 5575 in less than a week. Hopefully in the next couple of months, I can learn front page and download a ton of new information. Thanks St. Louis.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Currently, the May/June beetle is flying around neighborhoods in the St. Louis area. The adults are ½ to 1 inch in length and are a reddish-brown to black color. At this time these adults often crash into the sides of houses and into windows. Since the May/June beetle is nocturnal they are active during nighttime hours. The adults will not cause damage to ornamentals unless large numbers of the adults are present. Larvae of these beetles are white grubs, with feeding habits similar to masked chafer and Japanese beetle grubs.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
THE CONTAINER GARDEN ALTERNATIVE
Tired of spending money on annuals for your containers every spring? Why not use perennials instead? Gardeners and money conscience homeowners everywhere are learning the benefits of container gardening with perennials.
With so many varieties of perennials to choose from for sun and shade, it's now possible to create combinations that are just as appealing and colorful as those made with annuals alone, and the best part is that you don't have to replant them every year. Sure, you can mix an annual or two in your perennial combination pot, but that certainly isn't necessary if you choose your perennials wisely. You'll learn more about plant selection below.
Greenscape Gardens has created some container gardens consisting of perennials and annuals this past year.
WHO would want to grow containerized perennials?
Maybe you can identify with the idea of not wanting to spend the time and money on new container plantings every year. But container gardens are also perfect for people who don't have the space for or energy to tend an entire garden. After all, there are far fewer weeds to pull and plants to deadhead in containers! Some of our customers live in apartments and condominiums where container gardening is the only option. Some have physical limitations that prohibit them from getting down and dirty in the garden. For them, bringing the containers up to their level for planting is the best option. In short, container gardening with perennials is for everyone!
WHY would you want to grow perennials in containers?
There are many advantages, over and above cost and convenience, to growing perennials in containers. Here are some you might not have considered:
• It gives the gardener a head start of at least a month over those planting only annuals because perennials can handle colder weather. This means that instead of waiting until after Mother's Day to plant up your containers with annuals, you can have beautiful containers in April! If you just have to have annuals in your containers, you can add them after the last frost date.
• It allows the gardener to grow things that wouldn't normally grow in their soil or climate. For example, in St. Louis clay, you can grow perennials that prefer lighter soil in containers and then place the container in your garden. Similarly, if your soil is alkaline, you can grow acid-loving perennials in containers. You can cheat your zone by planting non-hardy or marginally hardy plants in containers and then move them indoors for the winter months. Many gardeners are doing just that since the trend of using tropical plants in the garden began a couple of years ago. You can also use decorative pots to contain perennials that may be invasive in the garden but are still worth growing.
• Containers can be rearranged to give the appearance of continuous bloom throughout the season. Place them in a prominent place, such as on a front porch, when they are in full bloom, then rotate them out when they are finished. If there is a spot in the garden that is all-green during parts of the season, add a pot of flowering perennials there to liven up the space and add visual interest. Design your container plantings to coordinate with the seasons, so you have something in bloom for spring, summer, and fall.
• The container itself can add an architectural element to the garden. Sometimes it's not what you put in the pot that's most important--sometimes it's the pot itself that holds the interest. This is especially true if the container is very large, brightly colored, or uniquely shaped.
WHERE is it appropriate to use containerized perennials?
Perennial containers can be used anyplace you would normally use annuals. In fact, perennials offer you more options for the shade because there is a greater number of varieties that will grow there. Say goodbye to impatiens and hello to hostas, coral bells, lamiums, and many, many more perennials!
Before planting up your containers, decide where you want to place them in the yard. This will help you make wiser decisions on the types of plants to include in the pots. Consider where the primary viewing point will be from and design from that angle. Keep in mind that plants in windy locations or those exposed to the hotter afternoon sun will need to be watered more often than those placed in more sheltered, shadier locations.
HOW can I make my own great looking perennial containers?
Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through each step of the process, from choosing a container, to knowing which perennials to use, to how to maintain and overwinter them.
Choosing a Container
• Just about anything that holds soil can be used as a container. The only requirement is that it has at least one drainage hole. (See the "Drainage" section below for detailed information.) You can use containers made of clay, wood, metal, plastic, or other materials; each material has its advantages and drawbacks. Some experimentation on your part will reveal what works best for you. Plastic is lighter and the soil doesn't dry out as fast, but it isn't always the most aesthetically pleasing choice. Clay containers are attractive, but those that are not painted lose moisture more rapidly than just about any other material. They are also very heavy and cannot be left outside over the winter in northern climates. Imitation clay pots, which are actually made of a sturdy type of foam, are very attractive and lightweight. Many do not come with drainage holes in the bottom, but the material is very easy to drill through so you can make the holes yourself.
• If you are planning on grouping a set of pots, it is more visually pleasing if they are different sizes but have a continuous theme such as pot color or material.
• When it comes to planting perennials in containers, the rule of thumb is the bigger the pot the better. First, perennials have larger root systems than annuals, so they require more space to grow well. Second, perennials in bigger pots have a better chance of overwintering successfully. (Read more about this in the "Overwintering" section below.)
• When choosing a container, try to coordinate the pot type and color with the surroundings it which it will be placed. If you are planning on using the pots in the garden amongst other plants, you may want to use one that is made of a natural material, such as wood, to help it blend in with its surroundings. This takes the focus off the pot and places the emphasis on the plants. Also, try to match the degree of formality of the container with the style of its surroundings. For example, a basket of flowers would look more appropriate on the porch of a cottage style house than would a tall, stately urn. The urn would look better at the entrance to a formal garden.
• If you are trying to create a focal point with your container, you may want to choose one in a bright color and plant it up with foliage plants of a sharply contrasting color (ie. a bright blue pot planted up with chartreuse foliage). If you want it to stand out as an architectural element, choose a large container with an interesting shape that contrasts with its surroundings (ie. a tall, narrow container placed beside a round, mounded plant).
Drainage
• Good drainage is absolutely essential for your containerized perennials unless you are trying to create a water garden. Any container you use must have at least one drainage hole. If the pot you choose does not have a hole in the bottom, make one yourself with a drill (there are special bits that can cut into just about any material) or don't use it.
• Before you fill the container with soil, it's a good idea to follow these steps:
1. Screen the drainage holes so the soil doesn't fall out of the bottom of the pot. Some materials that work well for this include landscape fabric (trim to fit bottom of pot) or self-adhesive fiberglass drywall joint tape. The tape comes in a roll; just cut a square to fit over the hole.
2. Add a drainage layer to the bottom of the container. Some people like to use pea gravel or pottery shards for this. A mesh bag filled with styrofoam peanuts works just as well and is much lighter. This might work better for you if you plan on moving your containers around the yard.
Choosing a Potting Soil
• Any good potting soil can be used with containerized perennials. Not all potting soil is created equally, though, and with this item you usually get what you pay for. If a bag of potting soil feels just as heavy as a bag of topsoil, it's not what you want. Potting soil should be lighter. Miracle Grow makes an excellent potting mix with the fertilizer already mixed in, which is great for gardeners who don't like to spend the time or money on fertilizing. If you are using plants that prefer to grow in sand or scree, you'll need to make those accommodations.
• Test the pH of the soil. Meters that measure pH are easy to use and are available at most nurseries. The $12 or so purchase is a good investment. This meter will measure the degree of acidity or alkalinity of your soil.
---Acid loving plants need soil with a pH lower than 6.5.
---Alkaline loving plants need soil with a pH higher than 7.5.
---Those that prefer neutral soil like it between 6.5 and 7.5.
• It is important to know what kind of soil the perennials yo u are using in your containers prefer. If your soil is not in the correct pH range, the plant will not grow well if it grows at all. To make soil more acidic (to lower the pH), add aluminum sulphate or garden sulphur to the soil. To make the soil more alkaline (to raise the pH), add lime to the soil.
• Since daily watering slowly flushes the nutrients out of the soil, it's a good idea to supplement with small amounts of liquid fertilizer a couple of months after potting up the containers. You will know it's time to add fertilizer when your normally healthy plants begin to show signs of decline (leaves will appear light green or slightly yellow).
Plant Selection
Before we get into the design principles of container plantings, let's first talk about selecting plants based on their cultural preferences. Most of all, the plants you use have to work together, not just look good together. This means that you will need to pair varieties with similar cultural needs if they are going to be able to grow in the same container. First, pair shade loving perennials with other shade lovers, not with those that prefer sun. Second, pay attention to the type of soil that each plant likes. Important factors include type of soil (sandy v. those rich in humus), pH (acid v. alkaline), and moisture (dry v. moist).
Combine only those perennials that enjoy the same cultural requirements and you will have beautiful, hassle-free containers. If you want to grow plants with differing requirements, you can do so, but in separate pots.
The choice of plant material is critical to good design when working in small spaces like containers. Pay particular attention to foliage color, texture, and habit first, and then select plants for their flower color, size, form, and bloom time second. When working with perennials, understand that the flowers are a secondary point of interest because, unlike annuals, they appear only for a limited amount of time. A well-designed perennial container will look great even when the plants are not in bloom.
A landscape designer on Home and Garden television said it best when he said you should design the garden based on "Thrillers, Fillers, and Spillers". This is a handy way to remember the three types of plants essential to good design. "Thrillers" are the plants that command attention, like the tall spike in the center of a pot of geraniums. With perennials, since the blooms are not typically present for a long period, thrillers are usually plants with interesting architectural shape or colored foliage. "Spillers" are the plants that typically spill over the sides of the container, visually blending the container and its contents into one. "Fillers" are the plants that take up the space between the thrillers and the spillers. They typically make the planting look fuller and more finished.
Your container garden can include all three of these design elements (thrillers, fillers, and spillers) or you may choose instead to plant up your container with only one type of plant. Not every container you plant needs to have a combination of different varieties. For greater visual interest, you should include a pot or two of a single plant. For example, a single mature hosta in a large pot is stunning, especially when surrounded by containers of combination plantings.
Some practical considerations to keep in mind when choosing plants for containers:
• Compact, mounding or clumping plants typically grow better in containers than spreading ones. Those that spread will outgrow their container and require transplanting sooner than the clumping types.
• Because of root constraints, most perennials (especially the larger ones) will not grow to their mature size in a container like they would in the ground. For instance, a plant that would grow 3 feet tall in the garden may only get half as tall in a container. So if you would like your container to look really full the first year, start with more mature plants to begin with.
• Shade plantings rely heavily on interesting foliage because they typically do not bloom as long as their sunny counterparts. Design first for foliage, leaving the flowers for secondary interest. This is a good place to use plants with strong architectural interest.
• If you are planning on overwintering your container outdoors or in an unheated area, choose plants that are very hardy in your area (ie. ones that are two or more zones hardier than your zone) to increase their chances of overwintering successfully. (See below for detailed information on overwintering and for a list of perennials that typically overwinter well in containers.)
How to Plant the Container
1. Start with a clean container. Be sure to disinfect previously used pots with a mild bleach solution.
2. You'll want the finished planting depth of your plants to be the same as it was in the pots they were grown in originally. Keep this depth in mind as you start to fill the container with soil.
3. When planting the design, it's often easiest to place the "thriller", or focal plant, first and then add the "fillers" second. Tuck in the "spillers" around the edges of the container last.
4. If the plants you are using have become root bound in their original pots, you'll need to gently tease the roots apart so they will be able to spread out in their new container. If the root ball is a solid mass, make a few vertical slits in it with a knife and splay it out in the new container. (It's best to buy plants that are not pot bound in the first place!)
5. Be sure to leave about one inch of space between the soil line and the top of the container so the soil doesn't wash out when you water the plants.
6. Press the soil firmly around the roots to eliminate any large air pockets and then water thoroughly.
Watering
• Plants in containers generally need to be watered more frequently than those in the ground. Most will need to be watered daily, some even more often if the weather is particularly sunny or windy. Also, as discussed under "Choosing a Container" above, the material the pot is made of will have an effect on how often the plants need to be watered.
• When watering, do not simply place the hose or watering wand over the pot and sprinkle. This is a very inefficient method of watering because much of the water never reaches the soil. Instead, stick the hose or wand in the pot at soil level. Use a gentle stream of water, not full power, or the soil will be washed out of the container.
• When watering, it is beneficial to let approximately 10% of the water flush through the pot after the plant has had a good drink. This helps to dissolve and wash away any build up of salts in the soil, a common problem in containers. Too much salt in the soil can kill the plants.
• Regular morning watering is best. This allows the plants to dry out before nightfall, avoiding potential disease issues. Regularity is very important. Plants will not grow as well if they allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Potting soil is often difficult to re-wet once it has been allowed to dry out, making it impossible for it to provide moisture for the roots.
Maintenance and Grooming
• To maintain their best appearance and to promote rebloom, keep the plants deadheaded (remove spent blossoms). Also, remove any yellowing or dead foliage as soon as it appears.
• Once plants have been growing in the same pot for several months, some of the nutrients in the soil will have been washed away. Supplement with a weak solution of liquid fertilizer every 3-4 weeks to keep your plants healthy and happy.
• It's a good idea to repot containerized perennials each spring. Give them fresh, nutrient-packed soil with some slow-release fertilizer mixed in and they will reward you with vigorous, healthy new growth. This is also a good time to divide any plants that have grown too large for the container and either repot them into a larger one or plant them in the garden.
Overwintering Containerized Perennials
Chances are, if you have taken the time to design, plant, and tend your perennial container garden all season long, you are going to want to overwinter it. Some gardeners choose to treat perennials like annuals, however, and simply toss them out after the season is over. Others choose to transplant their containerized perennials into the garden for the winter and then start over fresh with new plants in the spring. The choice is yours. If you'd like to try overwintering, read on.
Why do containerized perennials require special treatment to overwinter successfully?
• Temperature fluctuations are greater above ground than below it, and perennials do not like this.
• Perennials are less cold-hardy when grown in containers, so there is a greater chance for injury.
• Keep in mind that the bigger the pot, the higher success rate you will have in overwintering. This is because there is a larger volume of soil in a bigger pot to help insulate the roots, protecting them from freezing and desiccating.
• In warmer climates or those with a reliable, thick layer of snow cover, perennials are generally easier to overwinter. In the north and in places with unreliable snow cover, it requires more work to get them to pull through the winter.
Regardless of your climate, containerized perennials should be watered thoroughly just before the ground freezes to give them a reserve supply to use during warm winter spells. You can also add a few handfuls of snow to the top of the container occasionally throughout the winter (if overwintering under cover); this will provide supplemental water for the plants if the temperatures rise enough for it to melt.
This said, many containerized perennials do not survive the winter because they get too much water and they drown. When the pot accumulates water at the top but the soil is still frozen at the bottom, the roots sit in water until the soil thaws all the way through and the water can escape through the drainage hole at the bottom. Roots hate to sit in water, especially freezing cold water in winter. Avoid this scenario by overwintering your containerized perennials tipped on their side so water cannot accumulate at the top of the pot, or overwinter them under cover where they will not receive much water during winter or early spring before the soil thaws.
Overwintering Techniques:
There are many differing opinions on how to best overwinter containerized perennials. Some of the methods described here may work for your climate while others may not. Trial and error is the best way to find out what will work best for you.
• The general consensus seems to be that the best way to overwinter containerized perennials is to take the entire pot and bury it in the ground. This way, the roots are protected like they would be if the plants were actually planted in the garden. Just be sure not to leave the pot in the ground too long in the spring or the roots will start to grow out the drainage holes, anchoring the pot into the ground.
• You can overwinter them by moving the pots into a cold frame or unheated garage for the winter after the first hard frost. Since all perennials require a period of dormancy or a cold treatment to bloom, don't overwinter them in a greenhouse or other warm place where they will not go dormant.
• If you are overwintering your containers outside, place a grouping of pots as close together as possible in a sheltered site on the ground. This way, the pots can absorb the heat and moisture from the soil. The east side of the house typically is a good spot. Do not overwinter the containers on pavement or any other surface (such as a deck) raised above ground level.
Containerized perennials left exposed on higher levels during the winter have little chance of overwintering successfully.
• You'll need to cover the pots with some sort of insulating material. Try mounding leaves or evergreen boughs on top of the pots, followed by a thick layer of snow. If snow is not reliable in your area, use an insulating blanket made expressly for this purpose. You can also try wrapping the pots themselves in some sort of insulating material for extra protection.
Perennials That Typically Overwinter Well in Containers
Achillea (Yarrow)
Ajuga (Bugleweed)
Alchemilla (Lady's Mantle)
Armeria (Common Thrift, Sea Pink)
Aster
Bergenia (Heartleaf Bergenia, Pig Squeak)
Brunnera
Campanula (Bellflower)
Cerastium (Snow in Summer)
Clematis
Coreopsis (Tickseed)
Dendranthema (Hardy Garden Mum)
Dianthus (Pinks)
Echinacea (Coneflower)
Ferns
Geranium-Hardy (Cranesbill)
Hemerocallis (Daylily)
Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Heucherella (Foamy Bells)
Hosta
Houttuynia (Chameleon Plant)
Iris ensata (Japanese Iris)
Lamium
Lysimachia nummularia (Creeping Jenny, Moneywort)
Lysimachia punctata (Variegated Loosestrife)
Myosotis (Forget-Me-Not)
Phlox subulata (Creeping Phlox)
Polemonium (Jacob's Ladder)
Primula (Primrose)
Pulmonaria (Lungwort, Bethlehem Sage)
Salvia-Perennial
Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower)
Sedum (Stonecrop)
Sempervivum (Hen & Chicks)
Thymus (Creeping Thyme)
Tiarella (Foamflower)
Tradescantia (Spiderwort)
Perennial Combination Container Ideas
Made for the Shade #1
A. Aquilegia 'Blue Shades' (Columbine)
B. Asarum splendens (Chinese Wild Ginger)
C. Astilbe 'Rock and Roll' PP14855
D. Carex m. 'Ice Dance' (Variegated Sedge)
E. Heuchera 'Gypsy Dancer' PPAF (Coral Bells)
Made for the Shade #2
A. Helleborus 'Blackthorn Strain' (Lenten Rose)
B. Corydalis sempervirens
C. Hedera h. 'Golden Ingot' (English Ivy)
D. Aquilegia v. 'Black Barlow' (Columbine)
E. Hosta 'Touch of Class' PP13080
F. Lysimachia nummularia (Moneywort or Creeping Jenny)
Made for the Shade #3
A. Hosta 'Ice Follies' PPAF
B. Athyrium n. 'Red Beauty' (Japanese Painted Fern)
C. Astilbe 'Elisabeth van Veen'
D. Tiarella 'Pirate's Patch' PPAF (Foamflower)
E. Liriope m. 'Big Blue' (Blue Lily-turf)
Made for the Shade #4--Emphasis on Foliage
A. Carex m. 'Oehme' (Variegated Palm Sedge)
B. Athyrium filix-femina (Lady Fern)
C. Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Splash' (Lungwort or Bethlehem Sage)
D. Vinca 'Dart's Blue' (Periwinkle, Myrtle)
Consistently Moist Soil & Part Shade
A. Carex m. 'Oehme' (Variegated Palm Sedge)
B. Ligularia t. 'Cristata'
C. Corydalis lutea
D. Hosta 'Lakeside Looking Glass'
E. Lysimachia n. 'Aurea' (Moneywort or Creeping Jenny)
Late Spring Bloomers--Full Sun or Light Shade
A. Delphinium g. 'Blue Butterfly' (Dwarf Delphinium)
B. Dianthus b. 'Rose Magic' Amazon Series (Perennial Sweet William)
C. Polemonium r. 'Stairway to Heaven' PPAF (Variegated Jacob's Ladder)
D. Heuchera 'Sparkling Burgundy' PPAF (Coral Bells)
E. Veronica u. 'Georgia Blue' (Creeping Veronica)
F. Salvia p. 'Rose Rhapsody' (Meadow Sage)
Red, White, & Blue Combination with Trellis
A. Clematis (red)
B. Clematis (blue or purple)
C. Tanacetum n. 'Jackpot' (White Tansy)
D. Geum f. p.'Blazing Sunset' (Avens)
E. Geranium 'Brookside' (Hardy Geranium or Cranesbill)
F. Cerastium t. 'Yo Yo' (Snow in Summer)
Fall Bloomers--Full Sun & Average Soil
A. Aconitum fischeri (Azure Monkshood)
B. Aster d. 'Wood's Purple' (New York Aster)
C. Caryopteris d. 'Snow Fairy' (Blue Mist Shrub)
D. Echinacea p. 'Ruby Giant' (Purple Coneflower)
E. Lamium m. 'Orchid Frost' PP11122
Combination for a Dry, Sunny Space
A. Agastache 'Black Adder' (Anise Hyssop)
B. Belamcanda c. 'Hello Yellow' (Blackberry Lily)
C. Calamintha n. 'Blue Cloud' (Calamint)
D. Delosperma congestum (Ice Plant)
E. Dianthus 'Bewitched' PP13159 (Pinks)
No Maintenance Container--Full Sun & Dry Soil
A. Verbascum 'Sunshine Spires' PPAF (Mullein)
B. Stokesia l. 'Honeysong Purple' (Stokes' Aster)
C. Sempervivum 'Purple Beauty' (Hen & Chicks)
D. Sagina subulata (Irish Moss)
E. Sedum 'Rosy Glow' (Stonecrop)
Attracts Butterflies--Full Sun & Average Soil
A. Coreopsis p. 'Sunshine Superman' (Star Tickseed)
B. Leucanthemum s. 'Highland White Dream' (Shasta Daisy)
C. Liriope m. 'Silvery Sunproof' (Lily-turf)
D. Lobelia s. 'Fan Scarlet' (Cardinal Flower)
E. Lysimachia nummularia (Moneywort or Creeping Jenny)
Pink Monochromatic Combination--Full Sun
A. Sedum s. 'Brilliant' (Showy Stonecrop)
B. Gaura l. 'Passionate Rainbow' PPAF (Wand Flower)
C. Hemerocallis 'Dark and Handsome' (Daylily)
D. Scabiosa c. n. 'Pincushion Pink' (Dwarf Pincushion Flower)
E. Heuchera 'Green Spice' (Coral Bells)
Herb Pot--Full Sun
A. Lavandula a. 'Dwarf Blue' (English Lavender)
B. Artemisia d. 'Sativa' (True French Tarragon)
C. Teucrium c. 'Summer Sunshine' (Germander)
D. Thymus p. 'Coccineus' (Red Creeping Thyme)
Native Roots--Full Sun
A. Echinacea 'Twilight' PPAF, Big Sky TM Series (Coneflower)
B. Gaura l. 'Whirling Butterflies' (Wand Flower)
C. Heuchera 'Black Beauty' PP13288 (Coral Bells)
D. Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed)
E. Nepeta 'Kit Cat' (Catmint)
Mini Water Garden--Constantly Wet Soil
A. Juncus e. 'Frenzy' (Variegated Corkscrew Rush)
B. Hibiscus m. 'Mallow Marvels' (Rose Mallow)
C. Acorus g. 'Golden Pheasant' PPAF (Sweet Flag)
D. Asclepias i. 'Cinderella' (Swamp Milkweed)
E. Iris ensata (Japanese Iris)
Tuesday, April 26, 2005
THE OLD SIGN PHILOSOPHER, THOUGHTS FOR THE DAY!
GARDENING IS CONTAGIOUS!
EVER STOP TO THINK......AND FORGOT TO START AGAIN
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The Missouri Department of Agriculture will survey the state for emerald ash borer. "Right now our staff is working hard to educate the nursery industry, tree care specialists, arborists and professional foresters about what to be on the lookout for," said Mike Brown, MDA state entomologist. The state's ash trees are vulnerable to the pest, and state officials want to be prepared should it enter the state. Brown said Missouri nursery growers must know where their trees are coming from.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
PERENNIALS ENDURING LIGHT SHADE
Althaea rosea (Hollyhock)
Anchusa italica (Bugloss)
Aquilegia hybrids (Columbine)
Campanula rotundifolia (Harebell)
Chelone Lyoni (Pink Turtle+head)
Cimicifuga racemosa (Cohosh Bugbane)
Doronicum plantagineum (Leopard's-bane)
Linaria (Toadflax)
Monarda didyma (Bee-balm)
Paeonia (Peony)
Physostegia (False Dragonhead)
Polemonium (Valerian)
Pulmonaria saccharata (Bethlehem Lungwort)
Pyrethrum (Chrys. coccineum) (Pink Daisy)
Saxifraga (Saxifrage)
Silene pennsylvanica (Peatpink)
GARDENING IS CONTAGIOUS!
EVER STOP TO THINK......AND FORGOT TO START AGAIN
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The Missouri Department of Agriculture will survey the state for emerald ash borer. "Right now our staff is working hard to educate the nursery industry, tree care specialists, arborists and professional foresters about what to be on the lookout for," said Mike Brown, MDA state entomologist. The state's ash trees are vulnerable to the pest, and state officials want to be prepared should it enter the state. Brown said Missouri nursery growers must know where their trees are coming from.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
PERENNIALS ENDURING LIGHT SHADE
Althaea rosea (Hollyhock)
Anchusa italica (Bugloss)
Aquilegia hybrids (Columbine)
Campanula rotundifolia (Harebell)
Chelone Lyoni (Pink Turtle+head)
Cimicifuga racemosa (Cohosh Bugbane)
Doronicum plantagineum (Leopard's-bane)
Linaria (Toadflax)
Monarda didyma (Bee-balm)
Paeonia (Peony)
Physostegia (False Dragonhead)
Polemonium (Valerian)
Pulmonaria saccharata (Bethlehem Lungwort)
Pyrethrum (Chrys. coccineum) (Pink Daisy)
Saxifraga (Saxifrage)
Silene pennsylvanica (Peatpink)
Monday, April 25, 2005
THE OLD SIGN PHILOSOPHER, THOUGHT FOR THE DAY!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHUBBY
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
WOW.....WOW....WOW.....WOW.....WOW.....WOW.....WOW....WOW
THE WEBSITE IS HOT, IT MUST BE SPRING. NUMBERS ARE CLIMBING QUICKER THAN A WISTERIA VINE. OVER 38,XXX WEBSITE HITS NOW WITH OVER 13XX IN LESS THAN ONE WEEK AND OVER 143,XXX WEB PAGES VIEWED AND OVER 6500 PAGES IN LESS THAN A WEEK. MOST PEOPLE VISITING GREENSCAPEGARDENS.COM ARE VIEWING MORE THAN FIVE PAGES. THIS WEBSITE IS DESIGNED FOR THE ST. LOUIS GARDENER AND ANYONE MAINTAINING THEIR LANDSCAPE. VISIT IT OFTEN FOR UPDATES.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
WHITE GRUB CONTROL IN ST. LOUIS
The first thing to remember is the white grub is the larval stage of the May/June Beetle. Yes..... the same bug that's been dive bombing your lights recently. For some reason they are abnormally early this year. The June bug drops eggs while flying normally from west to east and normally attracted to bright lights. These eggs hatch as the white grub in approximately 60 days. DON'T APPLY GRUB CONTROL FOR AT LEAST 60 DAYS. DON'T LISTEN TO THE FALSE ADVERTISEMENTS ABOUT APPLYING NOW...YOU'RE WASTING YOUR MONEY AND POLLUTING THE ENVIRONMENT UNNECESSARILY. NOW FOR THE REST OF THE STORY.
White grubs are the most serious and destructive lawn insect pest in St. Louis. While not all lawns will get grubs and the extent of grub damage varies from year to year, there are some important points to consider concerning managing grubs in lawns. Grubs are white in color, with a characteristic "C" shape body when found in the soil feeding on lawn roots. Grubs are the larval stage of beetles.
The most common grub species in our area is the annual white grub, of which the adult is a tan chafer beetle. Eggs are laid in the soil in mid-summer, primarily on well-watered lawns in full sun, often near pavement. Damage from annual white grubs typically starts in mid August and may continue until early October. Other species may damage lawns, like the Japanese beetle, but usually are not as common as annual white grub. Monitoring and control of these species is the same as for annual white grub. The true white grub (May or June beetle), for example, typically has a three-year life cycle, meaning it could potentially damage lawns throughout the season. Japanese beetle grubs can also occur in St. Louis, with timing very similar to annual white grub. Adult Japanese beetles are serious defoliators of many ornamental plants.
Since grubs feed on the roots of lawn grasses, damage will appear as browning of the lawn. Consider that this also could be due to problems such as drought, poor soil, or diseases. However, grubs are easy to find by lifting sod in damaged areas and checking the root zone for the whitish grubs. DON'T TREAT FOR GRUBS THAT DON'T EXIST! Skunks and raccoons may tear up lawns in search of grubs, even when grub numbers are relatively low. Typically a population of about 8 to 12 grubs per square foot causes lawn damage that requires control; whereas lower populations may not damage the grass, they may attract skunks and raccoons.
Lawns showing damage from grubs may be treated with an insecticide. Insecticides available for homeowners include; trichlorfon (Dylox) (6.2% granular); fenozide (GrubBGon, GrubEx), or imidacloprid (Merit, formerly GrubEx) for control of white grubs. For all products, read and follow all label directions, then apply to damaged areas. Water the insecticide into the soil immediately. If treating a large area, stop after a portion has been treated and water the material in, then complete the rest of the lawn area needing treatment. Only treat in and around affected areas; grubs may only be in a small part of the lawn.
Spring treatment for annual white grub is not suggested since the grubs feed for a short period of time in spring and are reaching maturity, thus are not controlled easily. In addition, turfgrasses are actively growing at that time so usually don’t show damage.
Other insects may attack lawns in St. Louis, but severity of damage changes from season to season and also by location. Examples include sod webworm, billbug, chinch bug, and aphids. These insects differ from grubs in that they are feeding at or above the surface of the soil and usually are not as destructive.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHUBBY
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
WOW.....WOW....WOW.....WOW.....WOW.....WOW.....WOW....WOW
THE WEBSITE IS HOT, IT MUST BE SPRING. NUMBERS ARE CLIMBING QUICKER THAN A WISTERIA VINE. OVER 38,XXX WEBSITE HITS NOW WITH OVER 13XX IN LESS THAN ONE WEEK AND OVER 143,XXX WEB PAGES VIEWED AND OVER 6500 PAGES IN LESS THAN A WEEK. MOST PEOPLE VISITING GREENSCAPEGARDENS.COM ARE VIEWING MORE THAN FIVE PAGES. THIS WEBSITE IS DESIGNED FOR THE ST. LOUIS GARDENER AND ANYONE MAINTAINING THEIR LANDSCAPE. VISIT IT OFTEN FOR UPDATES.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
WHITE GRUB CONTROL IN ST. LOUIS
The first thing to remember is the white grub is the larval stage of the May/June Beetle. Yes..... the same bug that's been dive bombing your lights recently. For some reason they are abnormally early this year. The June bug drops eggs while flying normally from west to east and normally attracted to bright lights. These eggs hatch as the white grub in approximately 60 days. DON'T APPLY GRUB CONTROL FOR AT LEAST 60 DAYS. DON'T LISTEN TO THE FALSE ADVERTISEMENTS ABOUT APPLYING NOW...YOU'RE WASTING YOUR MONEY AND POLLUTING THE ENVIRONMENT UNNECESSARILY. NOW FOR THE REST OF THE STORY.
White grubs are the most serious and destructive lawn insect pest in St. Louis. While not all lawns will get grubs and the extent of grub damage varies from year to year, there are some important points to consider concerning managing grubs in lawns. Grubs are white in color, with a characteristic "C" shape body when found in the soil feeding on lawn roots. Grubs are the larval stage of beetles.
The most common grub species in our area is the annual white grub, of which the adult is a tan chafer beetle. Eggs are laid in the soil in mid-summer, primarily on well-watered lawns in full sun, often near pavement. Damage from annual white grubs typically starts in mid August and may continue until early October. Other species may damage lawns, like the Japanese beetle, but usually are not as common as annual white grub. Monitoring and control of these species is the same as for annual white grub. The true white grub (May or June beetle), for example, typically has a three-year life cycle, meaning it could potentially damage lawns throughout the season. Japanese beetle grubs can also occur in St. Louis, with timing very similar to annual white grub. Adult Japanese beetles are serious defoliators of many ornamental plants.
Since grubs feed on the roots of lawn grasses, damage will appear as browning of the lawn. Consider that this also could be due to problems such as drought, poor soil, or diseases. However, grubs are easy to find by lifting sod in damaged areas and checking the root zone for the whitish grubs. DON'T TREAT FOR GRUBS THAT DON'T EXIST! Skunks and raccoons may tear up lawns in search of grubs, even when grub numbers are relatively low. Typically a population of about 8 to 12 grubs per square foot causes lawn damage that requires control; whereas lower populations may not damage the grass, they may attract skunks and raccoons.
Lawns showing damage from grubs may be treated with an insecticide. Insecticides available for homeowners include; trichlorfon (Dylox) (6.2% granular); fenozide (GrubBGon, GrubEx), or imidacloprid (Merit, formerly GrubEx) for control of white grubs. For all products, read and follow all label directions, then apply to damaged areas. Water the insecticide into the soil immediately. If treating a large area, stop after a portion has been treated and water the material in, then complete the rest of the lawn area needing treatment. Only treat in and around affected areas; grubs may only be in a small part of the lawn.
Spring treatment for annual white grub is not suggested since the grubs feed for a short period of time in spring and are reaching maturity, thus are not controlled easily. In addition, turfgrasses are actively growing at that time so usually don’t show damage.
Other insects may attack lawns in St. Louis, but severity of damage changes from season to season and also by location. Examples include sod webworm, billbug, chinch bug, and aphids. These insects differ from grubs in that they are feeding at or above the surface of the soil and usually are not as destructive.
Thursday, April 21, 2005
THE OLD SIGN PHILOSOPHER, THOUGHT FOR THE DAY!
You can bury a lot of troubles digging in the dirt
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
THE WEBSITE NUMBERS ARE STREAKING. OVER 37,XXX WEBSITE VISITS AND OVER 1350 WEBSITE VISITS THIS WEEK ALONE. THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF WEBPAGES HAS REACHED OVER 139,XXX AND OVER 7,000 PAGES VIEWED THIS WEEK ALONE. THANK YOU THE GREATEST GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE CUSTOMERS IN THE WORLD.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
GRASS WEED CONTROL IN THE HOME LAWN
Grass weeds are classified as either annual or perennial. Crabgrass and other annual grass weeds are common problems in home lawns that can be treated through both chemical and nonchemical methods. Proper lawn care practices to encourage a dense stand of vigorous grass is the best way to prevent weeds from invading. The mowing height can have a big impact; lawns mowed higher (over two inches) tend to have less problems with annual grasses such as crabgrass. Close-mowed lawns tend to open up, allowing weeds like crabgrass to invade. Light, frequent watering also favors crabgrass. Crabgrass often invades areas seeded in late spring because of bare soil, frequent watering, and the onset of hot weather, which is ideal for its growth. Crabgrass is generally not a problem in shaded areas. The worst crabgrass problems always occur in hot temperature areas, (along sidewalks, driveways, south and west side closest to the house).
Herbicides are available to manage annual weeds. Preemergence herbicides prevent annual grass weeds such as crabgrass from emerging. Timing of application is important, pre-emergence should be applied to soil before the crabgrass emerges from the soil. Crabgrass will germinate when soil temperatures are greater than 55 to 60 degrees F. for 7-10 consecutive days, and continues until soils reach 95 degrees F. Other annual grasses germinate as the soils get warmer than 60 degrees.
In St. Louis early April to May 1st is the suggested time for applying a preemergence crabgrass herbicide. If the spring is very warm, consider late April. In cold, "late" springs, these materials could be put down well into May. Using forsythia blooming as a guide is not dependable. Many preemergence crabgrass herbicides are available in combination with lawn fertilizer, so the crabgrass prevention and spring fertilization can be done at the same time. Many herbicides may be reapplied for extended control; refer to the label for timing and rates.
If crabgrass plants are appearing in lawns in mid to late summer, remember that they are annual plants and die as temperatures drop in fall. Postemergence crabgrass herbicides need to be applied when crabgrass plants are small; typically crabgrass is noticed too late for these to be effective. The suggested strategy to avoid crabgrass next season would be to improve the lawn through cultural practices and consider a preemergence herbicide in spring.
Perennial grassy weeds are considered to be the most difficult weed problems to deal with in lawns. Control options are limited because the weed species are similar to the lawn species. In fact, many perennial grassy weeds are not considered weeds, but are considered desirable grasses when growing by themselves under a different set of conditions.
Several common perennial grasses, when growing in Kentucky bluegrass lawns, are considered weeds because they differ greatly in leaf width, color, or growth habit. Tall fescue is more coarse and grows in distinctive clumps when it occurs with Kentucky bluegrass. Creeping bentgrass, a very desirable turf species for golf courses, becomes a weed in bluegrass lawns because it appears as patches of finer grass, usually lighter in color. Zoysiagrass, a warm season turf species, appears as patches of thick grass, dormant (straw- colored) for much of spring and fall in Kentucky bluegrass or other cool-season grass lawns.
One way to distinguish perennial grasses from annuals is the time of the year established plants are present. Perennials (other than nimblewill and zoysiagrass) will appear as established green grasses early in spring; whereas annual grasses like crabgrass don't appear until late spring or early summer. Likewise, most annuals die off quickly in fall, but perennials do not.
Removing these weed patches by hand is one control option. It's important to get all of the plant, as many have underground or above ground stems (rhizomes or stolons). These stems enable these species to spread quite readily, so if broken or cut, they regrow.
Selective chemical control is not an option with most perennial grass species. Unlike selective herbicides used on annual grasses (e.g., crabgrass), nonselective herbicides used to control perennial weed grasses may also damage the lawn species. For this reason, spraying over the lawn is not suggested unless the problem is severe enough that all grasses need to be killed and the lawn reestablished. Using a nonselective herbicide, such as Roundup, patches of the undesirable species can be spot treated. After weeds and portions of lawn hit with spray die, reseed with desirable grass species. Treating in mid-August is generally thought of as the best timing (late July to early August to control zoysiagrass and bermuda in cool season lawns), as late August into early September is the most favorable time for reseeding.
If resodding the area afterwards, there is a longer period of time to treat the weeds. Keep in mind the weed species needs to be actively growing to be controlled by Roundup. Allow 10 to 14 days to determine if weeds have been completely controlled.
You can bury a lot of troubles digging in the dirt
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
THE WEBSITE NUMBERS ARE STREAKING. OVER 37,XXX WEBSITE VISITS AND OVER 1350 WEBSITE VISITS THIS WEEK ALONE. THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF WEBPAGES HAS REACHED OVER 139,XXX AND OVER 7,000 PAGES VIEWED THIS WEEK ALONE. THANK YOU THE GREATEST GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE CUSTOMERS IN THE WORLD.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
GRASS WEED CONTROL IN THE HOME LAWN
Grass weeds are classified as either annual or perennial. Crabgrass and other annual grass weeds are common problems in home lawns that can be treated through both chemical and nonchemical methods. Proper lawn care practices to encourage a dense stand of vigorous grass is the best way to prevent weeds from invading. The mowing height can have a big impact; lawns mowed higher (over two inches) tend to have less problems with annual grasses such as crabgrass. Close-mowed lawns tend to open up, allowing weeds like crabgrass to invade. Light, frequent watering also favors crabgrass. Crabgrass often invades areas seeded in late spring because of bare soil, frequent watering, and the onset of hot weather, which is ideal for its growth. Crabgrass is generally not a problem in shaded areas. The worst crabgrass problems always occur in hot temperature areas, (along sidewalks, driveways, south and west side closest to the house).
Herbicides are available to manage annual weeds. Preemergence herbicides prevent annual grass weeds such as crabgrass from emerging. Timing of application is important, pre-emergence should be applied to soil before the crabgrass emerges from the soil. Crabgrass will germinate when soil temperatures are greater than 55 to 60 degrees F. for 7-10 consecutive days, and continues until soils reach 95 degrees F. Other annual grasses germinate as the soils get warmer than 60 degrees.
In St. Louis early April to May 1st is the suggested time for applying a preemergence crabgrass herbicide. If the spring is very warm, consider late April. In cold, "late" springs, these materials could be put down well into May. Using forsythia blooming as a guide is not dependable. Many preemergence crabgrass herbicides are available in combination with lawn fertilizer, so the crabgrass prevention and spring fertilization can be done at the same time. Many herbicides may be reapplied for extended control; refer to the label for timing and rates.
If crabgrass plants are appearing in lawns in mid to late summer, remember that they are annual plants and die as temperatures drop in fall. Postemergence crabgrass herbicides need to be applied when crabgrass plants are small; typically crabgrass is noticed too late for these to be effective. The suggested strategy to avoid crabgrass next season would be to improve the lawn through cultural practices and consider a preemergence herbicide in spring.
Perennial grassy weeds are considered to be the most difficult weed problems to deal with in lawns. Control options are limited because the weed species are similar to the lawn species. In fact, many perennial grassy weeds are not considered weeds, but are considered desirable grasses when growing by themselves under a different set of conditions.
Several common perennial grasses, when growing in Kentucky bluegrass lawns, are considered weeds because they differ greatly in leaf width, color, or growth habit. Tall fescue is more coarse and grows in distinctive clumps when it occurs with Kentucky bluegrass. Creeping bentgrass, a very desirable turf species for golf courses, becomes a weed in bluegrass lawns because it appears as patches of finer grass, usually lighter in color. Zoysiagrass, a warm season turf species, appears as patches of thick grass, dormant (straw- colored) for much of spring and fall in Kentucky bluegrass or other cool-season grass lawns.
One way to distinguish perennial grasses from annuals is the time of the year established plants are present. Perennials (other than nimblewill and zoysiagrass) will appear as established green grasses early in spring; whereas annual grasses like crabgrass don't appear until late spring or early summer. Likewise, most annuals die off quickly in fall, but perennials do not.
Removing these weed patches by hand is one control option. It's important to get all of the plant, as many have underground or above ground stems (rhizomes or stolons). These stems enable these species to spread quite readily, so if broken or cut, they regrow.
Selective chemical control is not an option with most perennial grass species. Unlike selective herbicides used on annual grasses (e.g., crabgrass), nonselective herbicides used to control perennial weed grasses may also damage the lawn species. For this reason, spraying over the lawn is not suggested unless the problem is severe enough that all grasses need to be killed and the lawn reestablished. Using a nonselective herbicide, such as Roundup, patches of the undesirable species can be spot treated. After weeds and portions of lawn hit with spray die, reseed with desirable grass species. Treating in mid-August is generally thought of as the best timing (late July to early August to control zoysiagrass and bermuda in cool season lawns), as late August into early September is the most favorable time for reseeding.
If resodding the area afterwards, there is a longer period of time to treat the weeds. Keep in mind the weed species needs to be actively growing to be controlled by Roundup. Allow 10 to 14 days to determine if weeds have been completely controlled.
Monday, April 18, 2005
THE OLD SIGN PHILOSOPHER, THOUGHT FOR THE DAY!
Gardening requires lots of water ....
mostly perspiration
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
WHY SPRING GRASS IS YELLOW
Many calls and samples came in this past week concerning the yellowing of grass. There are many reasons for this and no simple reason in most cases. Historically there are more strange patterns and unusual symptoms of yellowing and uneven greening of turf in the early spring, than at any other time of the year! The following are some factors to look for and consider.
- Poa annua spring green up, many different weather conditions, along with the genetic variability of this turf, lead to uneven green up and variable growth. The more annual types may be more vulnerable to winter kill/damage and leaf tip yellowing from fluctuating spring temperatures and frost. It would be advised to carefully examine the crowns of individual plants to see alive and healthy.
- Basal Rot Anthracnose, this disease has been seen on at least one sample BUT was just one of several factors present. This is a problem from the past and not a disease that just started this year. It there was a problem with anthracnose last year it will overwintered in infested plants and can invade weakened plants if predisposed by various stress factors. If present, aggressive management procedures should be initiated immediately. This would include both cultural practices and fungicide applications.
- Multi colored turf, rapid fluctuating temperatures and wide swings in temperatures can result in many different colors of tissue. Such as a darkening of the turf leaves, yellowing, tip die back, reddening or purple leaf blades - leaf tips - leaf margins - and seed heads, etc. The red or purple color is often associated with nutritional deficiencies but is more likely to be a temperature response at this time of year. Also during cold spells, fertilizer response is slower. Frost on lush spring turf may result in strange color patterns. Genetic variability is often the reason why there are patches or circular patterns on off colored turf.
- Fusarium Patch / Pink Snow Mold, this disease can rapidly become active and cause yellowing of turf, especially Poa annua, during cool wet conditions. Often damage is short term.
- Warm Season Grass Greenup. Zoysia and Bermuda grass has not come out of dormancy and many people thought the grass was dead. Patience is a virtue for warm season grass. Wait til mid May to expect sufficient greenup. Refrain from fertilizing until the grass has completely come out of dormancy.
Greenscape Gardens takes pride by informing the St. Louis gardeining public about the best possible gardening and landscape advice. Check out our recommended cool season lawn care program.
Gardening requires lots of water ....
mostly perspiration
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
WHY SPRING GRASS IS YELLOW
Many calls and samples came in this past week concerning the yellowing of grass. There are many reasons for this and no simple reason in most cases. Historically there are more strange patterns and unusual symptoms of yellowing and uneven greening of turf in the early spring, than at any other time of the year! The following are some factors to look for and consider.
- Poa annua spring green up, many different weather conditions, along with the genetic variability of this turf, lead to uneven green up and variable growth. The more annual types may be more vulnerable to winter kill/damage and leaf tip yellowing from fluctuating spring temperatures and frost. It would be advised to carefully examine the crowns of individual plants to see alive and healthy.
- Basal Rot Anthracnose, this disease has been seen on at least one sample BUT was just one of several factors present. This is a problem from the past and not a disease that just started this year. It there was a problem with anthracnose last year it will overwintered in infested plants and can invade weakened plants if predisposed by various stress factors. If present, aggressive management procedures should be initiated immediately. This would include both cultural practices and fungicide applications.
- Multi colored turf, rapid fluctuating temperatures and wide swings in temperatures can result in many different colors of tissue. Such as a darkening of the turf leaves, yellowing, tip die back, reddening or purple leaf blades - leaf tips - leaf margins - and seed heads, etc. The red or purple color is often associated with nutritional deficiencies but is more likely to be a temperature response at this time of year. Also during cold spells, fertilizer response is slower. Frost on lush spring turf may result in strange color patterns. Genetic variability is often the reason why there are patches or circular patterns on off colored turf.
- Fusarium Patch / Pink Snow Mold, this disease can rapidly become active and cause yellowing of turf, especially Poa annua, during cool wet conditions. Often damage is short term.
- Warm Season Grass Greenup. Zoysia and Bermuda grass has not come out of dormancy and many people thought the grass was dead. Patience is a virtue for warm season grass. Wait til mid May to expect sufficient greenup. Refrain from fertilizing until the grass has completely come out of dormancy.
Greenscape Gardens takes pride by informing the St. Louis gardeining public about the best possible gardening and landscape advice. Check out our recommended cool season lawn care program.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
